I bought Ruger GP100 now what?

[FullAuto]

I'd agree with Daeglan: I've done several cases where the defendant was falsely accused of "cocking the gun, setting the stage for the reckless, hair-trigger accidental discharge that caused the wrongful death in question." That's why so many police departments went double action only.

Wish ya luck with your GP100! Hope you do as well as Chris, who won Stock Service Revolver at the last IDPA match AND beat ALL the auto shooters in the "house of death" tactical event with his GP100! Way to go, bro! We're proud of ya!

Thanks, Mas!

Maybe in 25 years I'll be serious competition to you and Chris!....

The more I handle that gun, the more I like it. It reminds me of the way I feel about my Springfield Operator. I guess we all have those guns that just make a connection with us for some reason or other; kind of like women I guess.....

[MasAyoob]

It'll happen sooner than that, bro, and to continue your analogy of guns n' gals, your GP100 is a good date to bring to the dance. :-)

Next time we're all at a match together, cut Chris or I out of the herd and take us over to the safe area, and we'll be happy to share trigger and reload techniques. (Will need dummy ammo for the latter though, obviously.)

best,
Mas

[Chris]

FullAuto, I should have mentioned this earlier. The GP-100 has far less screws to loosen up and "screw up" than S&W. But there is one screw you need to check everytime you clean the gun... the small screw on the bottom of the cylinder release. It takes a very small flat tip screwdriver (I use a large jewlers screwdriver). I've never had one come out, but I have had them loosen slightly, although it didn't change the gun. That's really the only screw you need to pay attention to on the GP-100. Another good revolver tip is to keep a stainless steel .38 caliber tornado brush, and a .40 caliber soft bristle brush in your range bag. Every few stages run the tornado brush through the chambrs and follow it up with the soft bristle brush. Powder residue can impede empty case ejection, and getting the cases out of the gun is half the reloading process.
As far as practicing... work on the draw/presentation, shoot DA only, and work on your reloads.
Chris Christian

[tom]

Mas I see you say the you have used the 4" is that what  both you and Chris are using or have you guys ever used the 6"  General thoughts about one over the other?  I think I may pick one up tomorrow and start training and get the 1911 later.

tom

[Chris]

Tom,
We both have used longer barrels on revolvers in the past, and still own some (at least I do). But the maximum barrel length allowed in IDPA for a revolver (SSR or ESR) is 4 inches, so that's what we are running for competition.
Chris Christian

[tom]

I guess I should just open my idpa rules book.  4" it is thanks,
tom

[tom]

Picked up my GP100 last night and ran a few rounds down range.  Very accurate out of the box though I have some work to go with the long double action pull which is part of the reason to get it in the first place.  Picked up one speedloader too but need one more set of snaps caps to really practice the whole reload sequence.  I figure however that I will stay with the G19 for most of this year in IDPA and be ready to move to SSR once I have that relatively consistent.
Question on long double pull -  I always think of the finger being in a "stable" position on the trigger and for double pull being at the first joint.  I was just watching American Rifleman and during the LCR review I noticed the guy's finger was more sliding through the trigger so he probably started at the first knuckle but ended in the middle after the break.  Was that just poor technique or have I been going about this the wrong way?

tom

[Chris]

Tom
I can't comment on the TV show because I didn't see it. FWIW, I favor a smooth faced trigger to allow me to shift the position of my trigger finger as circumstances dictate. When shots are close (inside 15 or so yards) I am pulling with/in the first finger joint for the inreased speed that degree of leverage affords me. When targets increase past the 20 yard mark I slide the finger back slightly and pull with the pad of the finger beyond that first joint. Longer shots require a more precise sight alignment/trigger press than do closer ones, and this works well for me.
On the other hand, Jerry Miculek (whom I consider to be the GREATEST DA revolver shooter who has EVER LIVED... (and I have shot with him on COFs in IDPA to witness this first hand) once wrote that he preferred a grooved trigger so that his trigger finger would not shift its position. I certainly can't argue with his success. But, I can note that he is not built like a normal human being. His nickname is "Popeye" and his forearms are the size of my calves (maybe a bit bigger than my calves) and his hand strength is such that he could probably crush my skull with one hand in the same manner in which I can squish an empty beer can. He doesn't need the increased trigger leverage that the first joint provides.
This mere mortal does, and a smooth trigger, and an alternate finger position, works. As for the guy running his finger all the way to the knuckle, I can only hope that the targets were at "bad breath" distance. Beyond that he's likely to be quite low and left (assuming he's right handed.)
Chris Christian

[tom]

Thanks, that is kind what I thought I had seen, read, heard and they were not showing the results.  Single action I shoot nice little centered clovers, da I am still in a a quarter but left and a little low so there is some work to be done, great pistol though.

tom