A personal request for Reloading Radio

[Jim Fleming]

SteveZ, ya rascal! How'd you know it was that easy...?

Incidentally it's done! This is becoming one heckuva informative thread! Keep 'em coming folks, we here in Reloading Radio have been too idle, too long, I don't mind a bit of being overwhelmed!

jim

Guys, you have given me so much good information, that I think I'm going to make this a sticky.

Watch this!    Actually its really easy to do..you click the "Set Topic As Sticky" button at the bottom.  Go ahead and try it!

[Charlie Foxtrot]

I DO have a neat dial that replaces the nut on the powder bar. Allows you to make adjustments much more easily, and to know which way you are going. It was like $2 but a friend said they aren't available any more. Too bad - nice addition (I bought about a dozen, for various toolheads).

I wouldn't let my wife anywhere NEAR primers, primer tubes, etc...

Would you happen to have a spare dial for sale? 

As an injunear, the concept of Lefty: Loosey - Righty: Tighty is beneath my buddy; leading to significant abrasion of his wife's ears.  She is an excellent primer tube filler (he turned down my offer of an automated filler), as well as an eagle-eyed QC Inspector.   

[Devereaux]

Found it!

http://www.mrdial.com/order.html

Guess either my recollection was off - or it's gone up in price. But this is basically what I got. I DO believe they were a lot cheaper before, but then I bought these things a long time ago.

[Charlie Foxtrot]

Thanks!!!

[Jim Fleming]

Ahhhh, bullet feeders, and case feeders! I'm jealous, again...

I'll get over it...

[meckley]

Jim,

Just finished listening to your latest episode, Listener Questions. I have post some issues and resolutions that I experienced with my Hornady Lock-N-Load AP press, bullet feeder, and case feeder. Thought it may be useful for the related discussion.

Your doing a great job keep it up.

Tim

[Jim Fleming]

Meckley? Where did you post your questions?

U have absolutely zero experience with Hornady progressive equipment, other than to drool over it at the NRA Meetings. LOL!

The only wild guess I would dare to make, is I would ask might it be an issue of adjustment or alignment?

Jim

Sent from my Droid

[Teamklr2bar]

357 SIG 357 SIG 357 SIG

many new loaders think that any 9mm projectile will work.  I fount I can only use the lighter tapered shoulder projectiles with a high volume powder to prevent setback.  The need to make sure to treat like a rifle cartridge and lube.  ETC....  I ran into these issues as a "greenhorn" loader and thought you might like to elaborate on this cartridge and it's problems.

[Jim Fleming]

Sounds good, I'll add it to my outline.

[Devereaux]

TK2bar -

Boy, you really jumped into the deep end first. I have yet to hear of anyone easily reload .357 Sig.

?SO my first question would be do you really need to bump the shoulders or can you just leave them alone. If the latter, then you can resize with a 10mm or .40 die, and just taper crimp the bullet. I would think that would mostly remove the need to lube before sizing. But I don't know - just guessing. I suppose the question really is ?where does the round headspace.

[Jim Fleming]

Dev, this wretched cartridge has to be reloaded exactly the same as a bottle necked rifle cartridge... Messy lube and all... There are no carbide dies for this one. I'm fairly certain it headspaces on the shoulder, although I've been wrong many times before! If it head spaces on the shoulder, as I *think* it does, it would require making sure that the headspace is correct every time so that the gun would go into battery each time.

All of us Reloaders from time to time experiment with only partially resizing our cases and know exactly what it feels like to close a rifle bolt on a cartridge that's got exactly the tight fitting/closing feeling that requires just a smidgen of extra force we have to apply with our bolt guns...

A handgun can't do that... It's that simple. The recoil spring doesn't have enough force to ensure lockup each and every time.

I'm saying that for reliability reasons, the shoulder has to be set back and the case fully resized each time, other wise the guns are just not gonna go bang from time to time, since they just might not be in battery when they strip off that neck sized reload from the magazine.

TK2bar, I apologize for not really answering you promptly, sir... Due to the nature of the intent of the original question/thread/subject I simply put it off to answer in a podcast, at a later time.

I'm dang sure no expert on the 357 Sig Cartridge by the way, I got this answer from someone else in a podcast, some other time.

Jim

TK2bar -

Boy, you really jumped into the deep end first. I have yet to hear of anyone easily reload .357 Sig.

?SO my first question would be do you really need to bump the shoulders or can you just leave them alone. If the latter, then you can resize with a 10mm or .40 die, and just taper crimp the bullet. I would think that would mostly remove the need to lube before sizing. But I don't know - just guessing. I suppose the question really is ?where does the round headspace.

[Jim Fleming]

As I _ understand _ things,  357 Sig requires a a bullet the same diameter as 357 Magnum. The jacketed projectiles would be measured at .357" inches. Two thousandths of an inch larger than 9 mm bullets and nominal bore diameter.

Over in Facebook, The Reloading Room we had a rather vigorous discussion about this same exact subject.

357 SIG 357 SIG 357 SIG

many new loaders think that any 9mm projectile will work.  I fount I can only use the lighter tapered shoulder projectiles with a high volume powder to prevent setback.  The need to make sure to treat like a rifle cartridge and lube.  ETC....  I ran into these issues as a "greenhorn" loader and thought you might like to elaborate on this cartridge and it's problems.

[Devereaux]

Guess if I thought about it, I would have (eventually - like next year) come to the same conclusions. This is, after all, an autoloader, and even in rifles, you can't fireform autoloader cases successfully - you still have to return them to original specs. Guess that CAN mean a two step process, one to size the case proper, and a second to set the shoulder back. If, instead, you were to use a single die to do it all, then I would think it is just like a shouldered rifle case and needs lube to get it out of the die (although I have to say that rifle cases seem an animal of their own. Even nominally straight walled cases like .45-70 need lube of they stick. I think it's the length of brass being exposed to the die.).

[Jim Fleming]

Exaclty, Dev... Exactly...

It took a bit for me to understand what you meant, but you're spot on.

[Devereaux]

?So TK2Bar - just how easy IS it to reload .357 Sig. I have heard issues with the thinness of the the neck being easily bent in the process. ?Any experiences to relate. ?Any pitfalls to watch out for. I am collecting brass for the possibility of reloading them down the road. For the time being I have a ton of 115 gr frangible to beat up.

[Teamklr2bar]

It might serve many in the "Prepper" world to do a podcast pertaining to what one might need in a post apocalyptic type of setting.  Say a set up for shot gun stuff because of the versatility and broad range of possible shot and projectiles that could be loaded IE: rocks, nails, etc...   If one were to do this it might be plausible for those to have dies for many calibers but choose to stock components for few.  Stock for the most abundant say 9mm, 308, 7.62, 12 gauge. but have dies for many because you would not know what might be at your disposal down the road.  In this scenario there would not be more dies being made.  Just a thought. Let me know if you are interested and I will compose some ideas for you.

DISCLAIMER:  I AM NOT A TINFOIL HEAD SURVIVALIST! haha

[Jim Fleming]

Thank you... I'll add that idea to my growing list... In fact you just reminded me about the fact I have an outline ready for another installment, "Back to the Narrative"

Jim