Newbie Cast Bullet Shooter - What works for you for removing lead in the barrel?

[Tennessee Jed]

I am the proud owner of a new Ruger Blackhawk Flat-Top 45 acp/45 Colt Convertible, the Lipsey's model.  Because I know own a 45 Colt, I decided to make the plunge and start reloading.  I happily loaded up some 225 lead wadcutters according to a published recipe, and fired off 50 rounds.

Afterwards, I wondered, "Why is the inside of my barrel coated in a gray substance?"  Being a jacketed bullet shooter up to now, I learned that this is what leading looks like.

After a ton of research, I used Kroil in the barrel, let it sit a couple of hours, then went to town with an old bronze brush with some copper Chore Boy wrapped around it.  The barrel looks better, but there are still a couple of small stubborn lead streaks from the forcing cone about an inch or two down the barrel. 

For you more experienced cast bullet shooters: (a) just how clean do you get your barrels (i.e., do you remove ALL traces of lead?), and (b) what method of lead removal do you like best?  Do you prefer the Lewis Lead Remover over the Chore-Boy method?  I'm thinking about getting both the Lewis Lead Remover and a Bore Snake, to see what works best, because it took forever to get the barrel as clean as it is now with the Chore Boy.  But there's a lot of experience on this forum and thought I'd check with the experts to see what they do.

For what it's worth, I am fixing the problem that initially led to the lead (all puns intended).  The bullet hardness was right, as was the powder charge, but the cylinder throats in the 45 Colt cylinder measured 0.451-0.4515".  I have learned while that's a great diameter for jacketed bullets, it's a problem for cast lead bullets.  My cylinder is on its way to Cylindersmith to be reamed out to 0.4525" which should fix the big leading issue.

Thanks for your help.


Jed

[Charlie Foxtrot]

   
I assume you're firing full-house loads. I shoot lead also -- but in reduced power charges for Cowboy Action Shooting.  i.e.: "Wimp" or "Gamer" loads to some. There's little, if any, leading of our barrels. So, I don't have much experience with leading....

However, you might look at gas checks and bullet lubes as a way of reducing fouling. They prevent the vaporization of lead and its adherence, respectively. For leading, our graybeards prefer the Brownells Lewis Lead Remover or Chore Boy. They don't go after the lead until they notice a reduction in accuracy. You might also look at the forcing cones; many pards open their's up, with an improvement in accuracy and leading. 

Enjoy the Blackhawk, great gun!  And the convertible feature is just cool. The wifey and I have Vaqueros: New and Old Models in .357.   

You might also post this on the Reloading Radio forum. Maybe Jim has some further insight.   

[Devereaux]

I shoot 250 gr lead bullets with 6.1 gr of TiteGroup, which is listed as the max load for a .45 Colt. I get a little leading, but nothing that sticks much. I generally clean with #9 first, to get the carbon out, then with Chore Boy. However, I do NOT use a bronze brush - it is too stiff, and doesn't allow the Chore Boy to get to the barrel lands and grooves properly. I use an old nylon brush, and have found it doesn't take all that much work to get the lead out. I shoot USFA SAA's, and occasionally a pair of AWA's.

I have a Lewis Lead Remover. Stinks. I would not suggest that you buy it. It's expensive, and doesn't seem to work all that well. AND you tear up the screen really quickly. Makes for having to buy a lot of screens.

None of my bullets have gas checks, and all are lubed, although technically that is only really necessary with black (or so I'm told by other CAS shooters). Still, my bullets are lubed.

[Tennessee Jed]

Thank you gentlemen.  With your advice, I think I've gotten to the heart of my lead scrubbing issue.  When I scrubbed (and scrubbed and scrubbed and scrubbed) with Chore Boy, I had it wrapped around an old bronze brush.  Before I spend any cash on the Lewis Lead Remover, I'll try it on a nylon brush first.

I knew I'd get good advice here.  Thanks again.

[Tennessee Jed]

Thought I'd give an after-action report.  Devereaux's advice was right on.  With a nylon (instead of bronze) brush wrapped in Chore Boy, and a little bit of Kroil, the lead came out.  One other thing, I bought a .45 cal jag for cleaning (instead of using a slotted tip).  Chunks of lead came right out on the patch with little effort.  Barrel is nice & clean now.  I think it was the nylon brush and the jag that made all the difference. 

Got my newly reamed cylinder back from Cylindersmith, and went to the range over the weekend.  Blasting out the 2 inch bullseye offhand at 10 yards with 225 grain wadcutters was easy as can be.  I handload the wadcutters with 8.5 grains of Power Pistol, and they should be running at around 1000 fps.  No leading afterwards. 

And a big, goofy smile on my face.  I swear I could hear Marty Robbins singing "Big Iron" in the background. 

 

[Devereaux]

Ain't it nicee when everything works as advertised. Old Colt is fun to shoot. If you load with something like Trail Boss, you'll get more of the feel of black without any of the hassle of black. But the recoil will be different. And a "proper" load will fill the case nicely.

[Doc Wesson]

Dev, is a phenom!!!

[Mudcat]

Great advice I will give the nylon brush a try.
Thanks!


Sent from my evil black iPhone using Tapatalk

[Jim Fleming]

Dev, is a phenom!!!

+1 about Dev's advice.

Sent from my Evil Black Droid that sneers at all iPhones!