what not to do!

[Teamklr2bar]

Here is one that almost got past QC!


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[Jim Fleming]

I quite agree, and I've done it also, more than once, and darned well didn't like my results...

Thanks for sharing.

[Teamklr2bar]

haha,  I like to shoot the TulAmmo steel case stuff when i do shoot and run drills.  that way i don't need to find all the brass.  Another advantage is the small size that their 50rnd boxes take up and the plastic insert for holding the round is great.  That said,  I had filled 4 of them and as I was sliding the full  inserts  into their boxes I noticed that.  I am afraid that if I had not noticed then I would have loaded it and (attempted) to fire it.   ha

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[Charlie Foxtrot]

  
Had one like that last Sunday at the Cowboy match. First one in many thousands. Fortunately, it was after the match, when we were introducing some spectators to the game.

I can save the bullet using a kinetic puller, but... how do I punch out the primer without that embarrassing BANG? Does WD-40 permanently kill primers?  

[Teamklr2bar]

I am not telling you to do this. But I just pulled the bullet, evacuated all combustibles and flammables from the area and used my press and de-capping die and pressed it right out with no problems. I then turned it around and pressed it right back in to the same round, returned the same powder and bullet and crimped.  No problems.  You will have to decide if that is worth it to you to save 1 primer, 1 case, 1 bullet, and 1 rounds worth of powder.  Evidently it was to me .haha

[Charlie Foxtrot]

Eaasshh.  Brave man.

As a charter member of the "Wow, I've never seen it do that before" club, I think I'll try killing the primer with WD-40, let it dry 110%, then slowly decap the brass wearing eye and hearing protection, and a cup.   

[mudtoa]

What do you do for your quality checks when you are done.    I inspect my cases and then run them through a checking die.

[Charlie Foxtrot]

We use Dillon translucent plastic boxes of 50. Easy to check for anomalies. When we take the box to a stage for use, the 50 rounds get another visual check.  Can't really explain how that flipped primer got through, but I've shot many thousands of the reloads before we hit this outlier. 

We also case gauge yearly match ammo, using the cylinder of a Ruger Vaquero. Lately, we've had a few split case mouths -- not fun in a Win 66 or 73.  We're thinking about using new brass for the special matches.   

[Devereaux]

I case-check every single round that I reload. Not really that big a deal, only adds a skosh bit more time to move the rounds from the bin through a case-checking die into the box.

On the primer issue, I just decap them like any other case. I figure if I can drop a tube of 100 into the primer tube, and can then press a fresh primer into the case, I can press it out with the decapping pin. I don't slam the pin into the case, and have never had an issue. I will get perhaps one backward or sideways seated primer every 3-400 rounds.

[Teamklr2bar]

I load all of mine on a single stage press so I batch each operation and handle each round multiple times through the processes. As a last stage I visually inspect individually as I box them.  As a matter of fact, I have pressed out probably close to  10 primers that have been installed improperly for various reasons over time.  Some were pressed in sideways, some were damaged from military brass that got mixed in without removing the crimp, etc... This was the only one that was backwards but some all were still live, and the ones that were sideways too.  The all pressed out very easily with no problem and no WD40.  I have a stainless box (was used as a liquid argon fill box) that I flip over and make a semi shield.  No ignitions at all.  Couldn't have hurt to use WD40. haha as a matter of face it never occurred to me. haha  I have to admit that sounds lots better. haha But I digress. enough making a fool of myself!

[Jim Fleming]

Charlie Foxtrot, I've decapped upside down live primers quite a few times.

While you're not wrong to be very cautious, sir, you have to remember that primers need something solid like the web of the case for the anvil to stress the primer's pellet. That solid "wall" just isn't there when decapping. the hole through the Shell Holder is not going to come even close to stressing the anvil. It's out in the open air, as it were.

While liability dictates that I say, and do say that one should never decap live primers, I've taken it upon my own responsibility to take care of minor goof ups like the image at the beginning of this thread.

[Teamklr2bar]

thank you for some detail.. ..

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[Jim Fleming]

No problem. Now that you're in The Reloading Room, you're going to find an absolutely fabulous wealth of knowledge about Reloading over there.

CYA

thank you for some detail.. ..

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[sprskip1212]

I have to say with my L& L I have gotten into the habit of checking each and every round by pulling them out of the press instead of just letting them drop

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[Kevin]

I've done this a few times myself... Has anyone ever dropped the hammer on one of these? Would the primer even ignite if struck from the back side?

[Teamklr2bar]

I am sure it would, what I don't know is if it would more or less force than normal.

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[Jim Fleming]

If the primer did ignite the flash would be directed towards the bolt face of the gun, and it'd be VERY HIGHLY unlikely for the round to go off....

I've done this a few times myself... Has anyone ever dropped the hammer on one of these? Would the primer even ignite if struck from the back side?

[Kevin]

If the primer did ignite the flash would be directed towards the bolt face of the gun, and it'd be VERY HIGHLY unlikely for the round to go off....

I was pretty sure it wouldn't go "BOOM", I was just wondering if the primer would ignite if struck from the rear... or would the firing pin even strike anything.

[Teamklr2bar]

I guess it would depend on the gun and it's firing pin's travel/over travel

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